If you’re wondering how to plant onions in your garden, how to care for them, and more about this must-grow vegetable, this growing onion guide is for you.

Recommended Onion Varieties

Many varieties of onions produce red, white, or yellow onions. Some are tangy and spicy, while others are mild and sweet. All varieties of onion fall into one of three groups: long-day (require 14-15 hours of light daily), short-day (require 10 hours of sunlight daily), and intermediate or day-neutral (require 12-14 hours of sunlight daily) varieties. The growing conditions of all varieties are the same, but the flavor varies from type to type.

Some of the recommended onion varieties are:

• Red Florence: Oblong shape, bright red

• Yellow Sweet Spanish: Round shape, large, yellow white

• Autumn Champion: Mildish flavor, sets in autumn.

• Red Stockton: Red ringed, large, white-fleshed bulbs

• Candy: Thick-fleshed, golden, stores well

• Snowball: White-fleshed, sets in autumn

• Setton: Easy to peel, strong & sweet flavor,

How to Grow Onions

You can grow onions from sets or seeds. Growing onions from sets is the most popular and more accessible method. A small onion set grows into a large onion. Onions love a sunny area and well-drenched and fertile soil. Keep the planting area moist in dry periods and weed-free.

Onion Seeds vs Sets

Onion sets are young bulbs with a diameter of 3/4 inch. Growing from sets is the fastest way to produce earlier crops. Plants developed from sets are less likely to be affected by disease. However, they’re more susceptible to bolting. So, choose heat-treated sets to lower the chance of bolting.

Onions take 90-100 days, around four months to mature from seed. However, onion sets are ready to harvest after 80 days or less than three months.

How to Grow Onion from Seeds Indoor

To grow onions from seeds, start sowing the seeds indoors in plug trays or pots before the last spring frost date and then transplant them as seedlings. Fill trays or pots with seed-starting potting mix and plant seeds half an inch deep and 1/2 inch apart. Trim the tops of grassy seedlings when they grow to encourage strong plants. Seedlings require 16 hours of light exposure daily, slightly moist soil, and fertilization with liquid organic fertilizer every 2-3 weeks.

When the resulting seedlings are small, transplant them to avoid upsetting the sensitive roots. Dig holes in prepared ground, plant seedlings about 4 inches apart, and then water the soil.

Sowing Onions Outdoor

Direct sowing outdoors can start in spring when the soil is suitable for plants and has warmed up. Level the ground and mark the location of seed drills that should be a foot apart and half an inch deep. Sow the seeds thinly, cover them, and run water along the rows. Covering sowings or transplants with row cover helps speed up growth at the beginning of the season and lessen the tendency to boult.

Some specific hardy onion varieties can also be sown in late summer to survive through winter and produce early crops in spring.

How to Grow Onions from Sets

Onion sets are partially grown onions that are best for quick produce and save time sowing. They don’t require soaking before planting. Plant sets in weed-free ground 10-15 cm apart, with 30 cm separating each row. In addition, plant them below the soil surface in moist and nutrient-rich soil, preferably with lots of well-rotted organic matter. Early autumn is also the best time to plant some sets to receive an early harvest next summer.

Watering Your Onions

Onions require well-draining soil and proper water to ensure the fullest bulbs. You will want to water your onions sufficiently after planting and then provide regular water afterward, watering your onions about once a week. They will generally need about an inch of water a week. Onions have shallow root systems, so do not let the soil at the base of your plants become dry and crack. Pay close attention, however, because overwatering can cause the onions to rot.

In sandy soil, the water will drain much faster than if you have loamy soil, so you may need to water more frequently. Onions do not grow well in clay soils as they hold too much moisture, and the onions will remain too wet.

Use Toro Aqua-Traxx Drip Tape or Netafim Streamline X at 8” spacing to ensure even water distribution through the irrigation system. Your soil type will determine the flow rate. At DripWorks, we have customer support available that can assist you with selecting your drip irrigation system.

Fertilizing Onions

Onion plants are heavy feeders and require constant nourishment to produce big bulbs. A balanced fertilizer (10-20-10) is required at planting for the onion to establish a healthy root system. Add fertilizer every 2-3 weeks with nitrogen (21-0-0) for the best results and big bulbs. Stop fertilizing when the onions push the soil away, and the bulbing process has started.

Apply fertilizer at the rate of one cup per twenty feet of row. You can apply fertilizer through your drip irrigation system with an EZ-FLO unit. The EZ-FLO fertilizer injector will connect in line with the drip irrigation and is compatible with water-soluble fertilizers.

How to Care for Onions

Fertilize autumn-planted bulbs in spring with nitrogen-rich content. During dry spells, water plants regularly to keep them moist and pull off any flower heads because they take the plant’s energy away from developing bulbs and producing seeds. The seedlings need to stay moist. Once they have matured, they will require just an inch of water a week. You’ll also need to ensure you are not overwatering or underwatering your plants.

Moreover, onions need full sun and 10-16 hours of light daily during bulb formation. Onions are shallow-rooted plants, so hand weed rather than using a hoe between rows. After being transplanted from plug trays, onions can be thinned out to produce large bulbs or left as is. The thinning’s are delicious, so that you can use them as green onions.

How to Harvest Onions

Once onions are big enough to use and most leaves have drooped or turned brown, harvest time is here. Usually, late summer is an ideal time to harvest onions. Mature and ready-to-harvest plants have yellow and drooping tops. Bulbs will swell in the next few weeks before nicely coloring up for harvest.

When they are ready, gently loosen the soil around the bulbs and lift the onions from the soil with a fork. Next, allow them to dry on a rack before storing. Avoid harvesting onions in wet conditions as they may rot during transportation and storage.

How to Use and Store Onions

After harvesting your onions, spread them on racks or newspapers to dry for a bit. When you feel rustle on their outer skins, it means they’re ready to use. Peel and chop onions to use in soups, sauces, pickles, and stews. Sweeter onion varieties like red onions are the best to use raw in salads.

Store onions in net bags or in a cardboard box in a single layer. Also, keep them in a cool and dry place. Make sure not to store them next to pears or apples. Onions are among the many vegetables whose flavor and storage are spoiled by the ethylene gas that fruit produces.

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Strawberry Plants: Quick Overview

Before going into the details, let’s briefly overview these perennial plants!

Strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) are loved globally for their tasty, aromatic, and healthy fruit. You can enjoy them from fresh off the plant to baked into pies and cakes in various ways. Easy to plant, strawberries are the first fruits to grow in the spring. Whether you have a spacious patch or just a small border, you can grow your own strawberry plants. They have different varieties that can grow well in cool and warm climates. Planting different varieties allows you to enjoy home-grown strawberries from early summer to autumn.

Read on to choose the best variety for your garden!

Types of Strawberry Plants

Here are the most grown varieties of strawberry plants!

• June-bearing/Summer-bearing Strawberries: This type is the most common and produces the largest fruit. They have a short but intense growing period of over three weeks. Plants are available for early, mid, and late-summer fruiting, providing harvests from early to mid-summer. Some popular June-bearing varieties include Honeoye, Earliglow, Chandler, and Allstar.

• Everbearing Strawberries: They are also known as perpetual or all-season strawberries. These varieties produce multiple crops throughout the growing season, from early summer until the first autumn frosts. There is a large crop in spring, followed by smaller crops in summer and fall. Their smaller berries are perfect for jam or freezing. Seascape, Quinault, Ozark Beauty, and Albion are popular everbearing varieties.

• Day-neutral Strawberries: Unlike June-bearing and everbearing varieties, day-neutral strawberries produce fruit continuously throughout the growing season, regardless of day length. These varieties consistently produce buds, runners, and fruits within a temperature range of 1°C to 30°C (35°F to 85°F). They are ideal for gardeners who want a steady supply of strawberries from spring to fall. ‘Tristar, ‘Tribute,’ and ‘Seascape’ are popular day-neutral varieties.

• Alpine Strawberries (Fragaria vesca): These plants, also known as woodland or wild strawberries, produce sporadically small but intensely flavorful berries throughout the summer. These low-maintenance plants are perfect for topping cereal and require less attention than larger strawberry varieties. Once established, they serve as attractive edging plants and spread to create helpful ground cover.

We recommend June-bearing strawberries for home gardens despite the one-year wait for fruit. The harvest is well worth the patience.

Soil Requirement and Preparation

After choosing the plant variety, the next step is to test your soil and prepare it for planting strawberries.

Strawberry plants prefer well-drained, slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8. To give the plants a strong start, add a few buckets of well-rotted manure or garden compost.

If your soil is too alkaline, we recommend planting strawberries in big containers filled with good-quality soil. Add lots of compost, leaves, or sawdust to heavy clay soil before planting. Remove weeds if your soil is sandy and mix in a 1-inch layer of compost or rotted manure. Raised beds are also a great option for strawberry plants.

Avoid planting strawberries in soil that has recently grown tomatoes, peppers, or other members of the nightshade family members, as they may harbor diseases that can affect strawberries. Additionally, consider planting garlic alongside strawberries. They make good companions and can help deter pests like spider mites.

Spacing Requirement

After preparing the soil, the next step is to consider the spacing requirements for plants. If you’re planting strawberries in rows, plant them 12 to 18 inches apart in rows spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. This spacing allows for adequate air circulation and enough room for the plants to spread. Planting strawberries in rows will also make it easier for you to control weeds and pests.

If you’re planting in hanging baskets or containers, space plants 8 to 12 inches apart.

Many strawberry varieties, like June-bearing, produce runners, so we recommend spacing them 18 inches apart. However, some varieties produce few or no runners and can be spaced just 6 inches apart. Be sure to check the plant tag for specific spacing instructions.

Growing Zones and When to Plant Strawberries

Strawberries can grow in warm and cold climates but prefer cold temperatures and long daylight hours. They grow best in Zones 3-11, which cover most of the United States. Depending on your growing zone, the best time to plant strawberries is early spring or late fall.

If you live in zones 3 to 8, plant strawberries in early spring so they have enough time to root themselves before winter. You can also plant strawberries in late summer for a fall harvest.

On the other hand, if you live in warmer climates (zones 9 -11), you can plant strawberries in the fall for a winter harvest or in late winter for a spring harvest.

Moreover, consider your area’s average last frost date and the specific requirements of the variety you’re growing for a bountiful crop of sweet and juicy berries.

How to Plant Strawberries

After preparing the soil and determining the best planting time in your region, the next step is to plant your strawberries. Here are some expert tips about how to grow strawberries!

1. Choose the Plants: Choose healthy plants from a reputable nursery or garden center. You can plant strawberries from potted plants, bare-root crowns, or runners (baby plants produced by mature plants).

2. Choose the location: Choose a sunny location with at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Avoid planting near large trees whose roots can compete with strawberries for water and nutrients and can also block sunlight most of the day.

3. Dig Holes: Use a trowel to dig holes slightly larger than your strawberry plants’ root ball. Make sure to space the holes about 18-24 inches apart in rows 3-4 feet apart.

4. Planting: After digging a hole, gently remove the strawberry plant from its container or packaging. Place the plant in the hole so the crown (where the stems emerge from the roots) is level with the soil surface. Be careful not to bury the crown too deeply, causing rot.

5. Backfill: Fill the hole around the roots with soil, gently pressing it down to remove any air pockets. Make sure the roots are covered, but the crown is not buried.

Watering

After planting, water the strawberry plants thoroughly to help settle the roots. Strawberries require 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week through rainfall or supplemental irrigation. If you’re growing strawberries in containers, especially hanging baskets, you’ll need to water them regularly, even if it’s not sunny, because the soil in the pot dries out fast.

Avoid watering the crown and fruit to prevent fungal diseases like gray mold. Water early in the day so the leaves can dry before it gets dark, which will also help prevent leaf diseases.

One effective way to irrigate strawberries is to install a drip irrigation system beneath a layer of mulch. To set up an irrigation system for strawberries, use our drip lines or soaker hoses along the length of the planting row. This system delivers water directly to the roots and conserves water.

Mulching

Cover your strawberry beds with mulch to reduce water needs, suppress weeds, and keep the fruit clean. Straw or shredded leaves are excellent mulch options.

Fertilizing

Strawberries require proper fertilization for healthy plants and bountiful harvests. Use a high-potassium liquid tomato feed every two weeks during the growing season to promote flowering. More flowers mean more fruit! Additionally, apply our organic, all-purpose fertilizer in early spring to support plant growth as they begin their active growth phase for the new season.

Winter Care for Strawberry Plants

Strawberry plants are hardy perennials that can tolerate mildly freezing temperatures. However, we recommend providing winter care in regions where temperatures drop below freezing.

During the dormant stage, trim the foliage to one inch after the first couple of frosts or when the air temperature reaches 20°F (-6°C). Cover the plants with 4-inch organic materials like straw, pine needles, or other insulating mulch. Add more mulch or floating row covers in colder climates to protect strawberry plants from winter frost. Remember to remove the mulch in early spring once the frost risk has passed.

How to Harvest Strawberries

Harvesting ripe strawberries at the peak of flavor is the most rewarding step. Pick strawberries with a gentle tug when fully ripe, deep red, and easily detach from the stem. Harvest every three days. Usually, you can start picking fruit about 4 to 6 weeks after the flowering. For the best flavor, try picking your strawberries on a warm afternoon. Use scissors or a knife to cut the stem. Don’t pull, or you might crush the berries. If you’re growing June-bearing strawberries, expect the harvest to last up to 3 weeks.

How to Store and Use Strawberries

Eat freshly picked strawberries as a delicious snack, or add them to salads, pies, cakes, and smoothies. You can keep unwashed berries in the refrigerator for 3-5 days. If you want to store them longer, you can freeze whole strawberries for about two months.

Life Cycle of Strawberry Plants

Strawberries are perennial plants, which means they will grow year after year if properly cared for. In the first year, these plants will produce a small crop of berries. In the second and third years, you can get a larger harvest, after which you need to replace them with a new plant. Here’s the life cycle of a strawberry plant.

• Dormancy: During winter, strawberry plants go dormant, shedding their leaves and storing energy in their crowns.

• Spring Growth: As temperatures warm in spring, strawberry plants grow new leaves and flower buds.

• Flowering and Fruit Development: In late spring to early summer, strawberry plants produce flowers, which bees or other insects pollinate. The flowers then develop into strawberries over several weeks.

Pro Tip: Remove blossoms in the first year to prevent fruiting. This encourages the plants to focus on developing strong roots, leading to better yields in the second year.

• Propagation: After bearing fruit, many strawberry varieties produce runners—long stems that extend outward from the parent plant. At the tips of these runners, tiny plantlets, or daughter plants, form. You can use these plantlets to grow more strawberries by simply pinning them down to the soil, allowing them to take root. Once they have established roots, you can cut them from the mother plant and transplant them to a new location.

• Rest Period: Towards the end of summer, strawberry plants enter a period of rest as the fruiting season wanes. It allows the plants to store energy and prepare for the fall season.

• Regrowth: Strawberry plants begin to sprout again when fall arrives. With proper maintenance, such as weeding and light watering, both parent plants and their offspring (propagated plantlets) undergo a growth spurt. This rejuvenation period prepares the plant for the next season’s growth and fruiting.

Common Diseases and Care

Despite their resilience, strawberries are susceptible to certain pests and diseases. Here are some common issues and how to care for your plants:

• Slugs and snails: These critters love strawberries. To keep them away, spread organic mulch, like straw, around your plants or try organic pest control techniques.

• Birds: Birds, such as robins, blackbirds, and brown thrashers, can be major pests to strawberries, particularly when the berries start to ripen. To keep them away, cover your plants with lightweight bird netting.

• Gray mold (Botrytis): This fungal disease can ruin ripening fruits, especially in wet conditions. Water your plants in the morning to allow them to dry out and avoid splashing water onto the fruit. Keep the area around your plants clear and remove any damaged fruits promptly.

• Verticillium wilt: This soil-borne fungal disease can affect strawberries, causing wilting and stunted growth. Plant disease-resistant varieties, rotate crops, and remove and destroy infected plants to prevent and control this disease.

• Powdery mildew: Your plants may develop white, powdery spots on the leaf surfaces. Keep the soil moist, remove affected leaves, and space out your plants for better airflow.

• Vine weevil: These pests can cause severe damage, particularly to strawberries in pots. Handpick adult weevils and squash them. Consider using biological control methods to kill the larvae.

Conclusion

There you go! From choosing the best variety and planting to picking your red ripened strawberries, this guide has provided all the necessary information any beginner or experienced gardener may need. By following the tips and guidelines outlined above, you can enjoy fresh, tasty strawberries throughout the summer. So, put your gardening gloves on and start growing your own strawberries today

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About Potatoes

Potatoes, scientifically known as Solanum tuberosum, belong to the nightshade family, which includes peppers, tomatoes, and eggplants. The Incas of Peru were the first to talk about them, and they came to the American Colonies in 1621. Today, potatoes are the number one veggie in the U.S.

Potatoes prefer cooler weather and grow well in the northern part of the U.S. But surprisingly, they can also be grown in warmer areas as a winter crop. The tasty part of the potato is the underground tuber. This tuber forms from underground stems called stolon’s when the plants are about 6 to 8 inches tall.

They are a low-fat and cholesterol-free source of carbohydrates. The skin alone gives you 45% of your daily vitamin C and 18% potassium, plus other healthy stuff.

There are more than 100 types of potatoes, with different flesh colors, skin colors, and sizes, from big ones to fingerlings. Some are great for roasting or mashing, while others are perfect for boiling.

Types of Potatoes

There are three types of potatoes based on when to plant them and when to harvest them.

• Early-season potatoes (First Earlies): are planted in early spring. They grow fast, taking about 60 to 80 days to be ready by early summer. They have thinner skin and tender flesh and can be stored for a few weeks. Examples include Irish Cobbler, Purple Majesty, Red Norland, and Mountain Rose.

• Mid-season potatoes (Second Earlies): These take about 80 to 100 days to mature and are usually ready in the second half of summer. You can store them for about a month. E.g., Yukon Gold, Redd Pontiac, Chieftain, Austrian Crescent, and Viking.

• Late-season crops: These mature in 100 to 130 days. They’re great for storing and can last 2 to 3 months in the right conditions. Plant them in August and harvest in the fall. E.g., Katahdin, German Butterball, French Fingerling, and Elba.

You can grow different types of potatoes based on their flavor and texture.

• Mealy Potatoes (like Russets): These are great for baking, mashing, and frying. When you mash them, they don’t get sticky and absorb flavors well. But they might not hold up in potato salads and soups.

• Waxy Potatoes (like Purple Peruvian): Perfect for curries, frittatas, soups, and salads. They stay together when cooked. You can even pan-fry leftover boiled ones without them falling apart. Be careful, though – mashing them can make them a bit sticky.

• All-Purpose Potatoes (like Yukon Gold): These fall in between. They have a good balance of mealy and waxy starches, making them versatile for various dishes.

Spacing and Soil Needs of Potatoes

Potatoes can grow in different soils, but the best is sandy loam or loose, well-drained soil full of nutrients. If you have sandy soil, you should water your plants more often to keep them moist enough. The potatoes might turn out oddly shaped if the soil doesn’t drain well and has a lot of clay and silt.

The soil should be slightly acidic, with a pH between 5.8 and 6.5. If the soil is too alkaline, it might lead to a common disease called scab, which affects the tubers. Also, ensure the soil temperature is at least 7° to 13°C. To make your soil better, you can add manure or compost which will provide nutrients to help your potatoes grow well.

When planting potatoes, make adequate spacing between plants to promote proper growth and airflow. Planting in hills or rows is common, with about 12-15 inches spacing between plants and 2-3 feet between rows. Don’t grow potatoes in the same spot for 3-4 years – this helps keep the soil healthy for your plants.

When to Plant Potatoes

The best time to plant potatoes depends on your climate. Plant your garden potatoes about 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date. The soil must be warm, around 55°F during the day and 45°F at night. But don’t rely too much on the calendar – look at the soil. If it’s too wet and sticks together, it’s hard to work with. Let it dry a bit before planting. If your spring is late and wet, you plant around April (depending on where you are) or even until June, especially if you use containers.

If you’re in colder regions, you can plant potatoes around early to mid-April, about 6-8 weeks before the last frost. Most potatoes can handle a bit of cold. But be careful, they don’t like freezing temperatures. You can plant potatoes as a winter crop if you live in warmer areas with mild winters. You can grow them in these regions anytime from September to February, depending on your region. So, the right time to plant depends on your local weather.

Equipment Required for Potato Planting

To grow potatoes, you’ll need:

• Seed potatoes

• Potato fertilizer

• Deep container or grow bag

• Gardening gloves

• Mulch

• Garden fork and spade

• Hand trowel

• Storage crates, bags, or sacks

How to Plant Potatoes

Choosing Seed Potatoes

Potatoes seeds purchased from the grocery store might not be the best choice for planting in your garden because they could have been treated with chemicals to prevent sprouting. Ensure your seed potatoes are certified (disease-resistant) and have eyes (buds) sticking out. You can buy from seed companies or nurseries. Use fresh seed potatoes because they produce higher yields, are less likely to get sick, and offer a greater variety of potato types than those from the grocery store.

Preparing Potatoes for Planting (Chitting)

When you buy your seed potatoes, they might not have sprouts. Place them in a sunny spot with temperatures between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit for about a week or two before planting to encourage sprouting.

Place the seed potatoes in seed trays or egg boxes with the buds facing upward, and keep them in a bright, frost-free place for a few weeks until the sprouts reach a length of 5cm (2 inches) in six weeks. This process is known as ‘chitting.’ Although it is not necessary, chitting is believed to increase yields and is mainly used to save a few weeks in the growing time for early potatoes.

After a month of chitting, the potatoes should develop short, green sprouts. Your potatoes will still grow well if you don’t have time or space to chit, but harvesting time may increase.

Use a clean, sharp knife to cut the larger seed potatoes into smaller pieces a day or two before planting them. Each piece should be about 2 inches square and have at least 1 or 2 eyes or buds. If the potatoes are smaller than a ball, you can plant them whole. In a day or so, the sliced pieces will form a thick covering that will protect them from rotting.

Spread compost outside about 1 inch deep on the planting area. Potatoes need a lot of nutrients, and this extra food will help them grow well.

Planting in the Ground

Potatoes are planted by digging a trench for planting 6 to 8 inches deep and as wide as your shovel. Make sure to keep each row of trenches at least three feet apart. After digging the trench, mix in compost or manure to make the soil better for your potatoes to thrive.

Once you’ve added these ingredients to the trench, place a seed potato in it, keeping them 12 inches apart. If you use potato slices, place them with the cut side down and cover them with four inches of soil. If you’re planting early types, space the potatoes about 16 inches apart in both directions. For maincrop potatoes, give them a bit more space, around 18 inches apart.

When you see sprouts (which usually takes about two weeks), fill the trench with more soil. Leave only the tiny tip of the sprout exposed to the sun. Repeat this process as the sprouts grow until you have used up all the soil. Adding more soil on top of the seed potatoes means a bigger harvest, so feel free to create a large mound.

Planting in the Containers

If you don’t have enough space in the ground, you can grow potatoes in huge containers or specially-made potato sacks. Start by filling the bottom of your container or sack with around 4 inches (10 cm) of planting mix. Place one or two potatoes on top, then cover them. As the foliage grows, add more planting mix to mound it until the soil reaches the top. This technique will make the foliage flourish and grow.

Hilling Potatoes

Hilling is an important farming practice for growing better potatoes. It helps increase the amount and quality of the potatoes you harvest. Once your potato plants reach a length of about 6 to 8 inches, start mounding the soil around them. Burying potatoes deeper in the soil enhances their flavor and prevents them from being exposed to sunlight. If tubers are exposed to sunlight for too long, they can turn green and taste bitter due to a substance called solanine.

Mound the soil and compost around the plant to protect your potatoes from sunlight. Leave only the top 4 inches (10 cm) exposed. You can use a spade to pile soil around the base of each potato plant. Be careful not to harm any tubers that are already growing underneath. Keep hilling until the plant blooms and the aboveground section of the plant is at least an inch tall.

Watering Potatoes

Watering your potatoes is essential for a successful harvest! Potatoes have lush, leafy plants, and their tubers need lots of water to swell. In dry conditions, make sure to water thoroughly. Keep the moisture level consistent, especially after the flowers bloom. Potatoes generally need about 1 to 2 inches of water each week.

If the soil goes from dry to wet and back again due to inconsistent watering amounts, it can cause problems for your potatoes. They might have internal spotting, hollow hearts, or growth cracks. Too much water right after planting or too little when they’re growing can make the potatoes look weird and affect their quantity and quality. If you notice the leaves wilting, that is a sign to stop watering.

Consider setting up a drip irrigation system to provide a steady and efficient water supply. Drip irrigation minimizes water waste and keeps foliage dry, reducing the risk of fungal diseases; for row crops, use high-flow drip tape for equal water distribution. If growing in containers, a 1 GPH Pot Dripper will provide the pot with constant watering.

Fertilization Needs and Type of Fertilizers

For the best growth of your potatoes, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) and less in nitrogen (N). A good fertilizer ratio is 5-10-10 NPK, or something similar with twice the amounts of P and K compared to N. Potatoes need phosphorus and potassium to grow large, healthy tubers. Too much nitrogen will make the plant produce too many leaves, which is not suitable for a root crop. Furthermore, excess nitrogen can make the plants more prone to diseases like late blight.

To apply slow-release granular fertilizers, dig shallow ditches (side-dressing) next to your potato plants, spread the fertilizer, and then cover it with soil. If you use water-soluble, fast-release fertilizers, be careful not to soak the leaves. You can also feed your crops organically with seaweed, wood ash, bone, or chicken manure. Use the EZ-FLO injectors with a water-soluble fertilizer to fertilize your drip irrigation system.

When and How to Harvest Potatoes

Potatoes are usually ready for harvest when the plants’ foliage turns yellow and begins to die back. To store potatoes for a longer time, wait to dig them up until two to three weeks after the leaves have died back. Choose a dry day for harvesting. Use a strong garden fork or spade to dig up the potatoes. After harvesting, let the potatoes stay on the garden soil for two to three days. This helps in the curing process, allowing the potatoes to last longer in storage.

If rainy weather is expected, you can also cure the potatoes in a sheltered place like a garage or covered porch. For the curing period, keep the potatoes in a dry, dark, and cold place (45 to 60°F) for up to two weeks.

How to Store Potatoes

To keep potatoes fresh for a long time, make sure they have good airflow, cold surroundings, high humidity, and are kept in the dark. Store them in a cool place, ideally between 30°F to 45°F. Warmer temperatures can lead to sprouting and disease. Usually, an unheated garage or basement is a good place. Still, if you live in a warm area, you can use an additional refrigerator with a slightly higher-than-usual temperature for storing potatoes. Make sure good ventilation by using mesh bags or containers with holes but avoid airtight containers to prevent mold.

Life Cycle of the Potatoes

Growing potatoes usually takes between 90 and 120 days for most types. Early-season varieties take about 60–80 days, mid-season varieties take 80–100 days, and late-season varieties take 100–130 days. Potatoes go through several stages, including sprouting from seed potatoes, developing foliage, flowering, and finally, reaching maturity for harvest. Observing and managing each stage will contribute to a bountiful potato harvest.

Common Pests and Diseases

Growing potatoes is easy, but there are some common problems you might face:

• Aphids: These small insects cause leaves to look weird or yellow. They leave a sticky substance on plants, and black mold may grow. To control them, plant companion plants, spray insecticidal soap to knock them off, or put orange or banana peels around plants.

• Colorado Potato Beetles: These beetles lay yellow-orange eggs and chew holes in leaves. Pick them off by hand, use straw mulch, and use row covers. Diatomaceous earth or organic pesticides can help if they’re a big problem.

• Flea Beetles: These tiny black bugs make many tiny holes in leaves. Use row covers, add mulch, or bring in native plants to attract helpful insects.

• Potato Scab: This most common potato disease is caused by bacteria and makes brown, rough spots on potatoes. Choose scab-resistant varieties, keep the soil slightly acidic, and use sulfur on seed potatoes before planting.

• Early Blight: This virus makes dark spots on leaves and may kill them. Destroy infected plants, choose types of potatoes that resist it, keep the soil healthy, and make sure air can circulate around the plants.

• Late Blight: This is another kind of blight caused by insects. It makes spots on leaves that turn brown, and a fuzzy growth appears underneath. Destroy infected plants, choose resistant potatoes, make sure air can circulate, and don’t water from above.

Rotate crops annually, practice good sanitation, and consider using disease-resistant potato varieties. Regularly check your plants for any signs of illness and promptly address any issues that may arise.

Wrap Up

There you have it: a comprehensive guide to growing potatoes. From selecting the right spot and soil, choosing the best seed potatoes, and providing proper care throughout the growing season to harvesting and storing your crop, this guide has covered everything you need to know.

Follow these steps, and you can easily grow tasty potatoes full of nutrition and flavor. Whether you’re growing them in a garden or containers, with patience and care, you’ll have your own delicious potatoes to enjoy throughout the season. Happy planting!

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About Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts are named after the city of Brussels, Belgium, where they were first planted in the 16th century and enjoyed for centuries. They belong to the cabbage or brassica family and are incredibly resilient, producing good crops even in the hardest winters. This vegetable is commonly found in supermarkets but less frequently in home gardens. This is most likely due to their long growing season (80-100 days to harvest). They grow best for fall or early winter harvest as a cool-season crop. Sprouts have the sweetest flavor after a light frost or two.

Brussels sprouts are large, quirky-looking plants that grow up to 1m (3ft) tall. They have a leafy top and robust stalk covered in tiny, rounded green or purple sprouts. Brussels sprouts are a great source of dietary fiber, folic acid, and vitamins C and D. The vegetable is “superfood” because it also includes glucosinolates, which are anti-cancer compounds.

Types of Brussels Sprouts

There are more than 100 varieties of Brussels sprouts available to choose from. F1 hybrid types are the greatest option if you want large quantities of delicious, high-quality sprouts. They vary in productivity, days to maturity, disease resistance, plant size, and the size and color of the sprouts. Popular types include:

Long Island Improved is a compact, heirloom plant variety that prefers cool summer and produces high yields. It can handle wind and freezing temperatures.

Jade Cross is another compact, high-yield hybrid variety known for its tolerance to hot weather. It is more heat-tolerant than other varieties and suitable for windy locations.

Oliver has large bright green sprouts that are evenly spaced on the stem. This variety is also well-known for its disease resistance and shorter growing season.

Falstaff has reddish-purple sprouts that hold their color when cooked. This variety also makes an attractive ornamental plant.

Diablo is a heavy producer of smooth, solid, medium-sized sprouts. This F1 hybrid variety is sweeter and tender.

Spacing and Soil Needs for Planting Brussels

Brussels sprouts thrive in full sun and fertile, well-drained soil. Before planting, add several inches of aged manure or compost to improve the soil. Choose a sunny planting area with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily. It is best to plant Brussels sprouts in raised garden beds when temperatures are inconsistent in early spring and fall.

Brussels needs room to spread out, so space seeds 3-4 inches apart and space seedlings 18-24 inches apart.

When to Plant Brussel Sprouts

Brussels sprouts thrives in cooler weather. Since they take a long time to grow, it is best to start growth by planting young plants or seedlings. Brussel sprouts need at least 80 days to mature, and a little frost enhances their flavor.

Sow seeds about four months before your region’s expected first fall frost date. For areas with cold winters, that probably means early to midsummer. This will allow you to enjoy harvest in the fall or early winter. In areas with moderate winters, plants are planted in the middle to late summer for a mid- to late-winter crop.

If you want to start with seeds, direct sow into the garden in mid-to-late summer for a fall harvest. Seedlings can be planted in the garden 6 to 10 weeks before the first frost. Gardeners in cold areas can plant them outside as soon as the soil is workable for spring crops.

How to Plant Brussels Sprouts

Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep in well-prepared ground. If you’re direct sowing outdoors, space seeds 3 to 4 inches apart. If you’re planting seedlings, space them 18 to 24 inches apart. Water thoroughly at the time of sowing or transplanting to encourage growth. When the young plant reaches about 6 inches tall, thin the plant to 12-24 inches apart and use row cover to protect plants from pests.

Fertilization Needs

Once the seedlings reach about six inches tall, fortnightly use an organic nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Reapply it throughout the growing season as directed on the label. Do not use fertilizer that contains a weed killer, as this could destroy your vegetable plants.

To improve your soil, add well-rotted compost or manure in spring or fall. Don’t use fresh manure, as it may increase weed problems and harmful bacteria.

Watering Brussel Sprouts

Regular, consistent watering is key to abundant harvests of Brussels sprouts. If the soil becomes overly dry, the sprouts will wither and not fully develop. Water the top inch of soil when dry and check it frequently.

Water seedlings and young plants regularly. Once they’re established and growing well and there’s no rain, repeat the process every ten to fourteen days. You should water deeply but infrequently while keeping the soil moist but not soggy. One to two inches of water is needed each week.

Use a drip irrigation system to water Brussels deeply and save water. Apply mulch around the plant to preserve soil moisture and inhibit weed growth. Inconsistent moisture can lead to poor sprout development.

Harvesting and Usage

Brussels sprouts start producing sprouts when they reach full height. Sprouts grow at the base of the leaf stalk or joint. They start maturing from bottom to upward. When the lower sprouts reach about an inch, start harvesting. Pick them before they grow too big and start to crack and become bitter. You can pick the lower sprouts when they grow about the size of walnuts.

Early Brussel varieties can be harvested from fall onwards, but the main harvesting season is winter because the flavor of sprouts gets enhanced once they experience frosts. Remove the lower leaves and pull off the sprouts with a sharp downward tug. You can also use pruners for this. Check your plants regularly and harvest the sprouts as they form. You can also use the entire stalk to keep sprouts longer.

Sprouts are rich in vitamins, fiber, and antioxidants. They can be cooked in various ways, such as sauteing, stir-frying, and roasting.

Although sprouts are best eaten fresh, they can be kept in a plastic bag for several days in the refrigerator. Alternatively, you can pick full stems and hang them in a cool, frost-free garage or shed or stand them in water for a few days, then harvest the sprouts as needed.

Common Diseases and Care

Brussel sprouts are typically hardy, disease-resistant plants, but they can suffer from pests and diseases that affect the cabbage family. They are best grown under mesh netting to protect them from pigeons and cabbage caterpillars. Here are the pests and diseases that can be problematic for these crops.

Caterpillars: Brussels, cabbages, and other brassica crops are food sources for caterpillars. They are the larvae of small and large white butterflies and moths.

Cabbage Root Fly: The maggots of this pest eat the roots of the crop, leading to blueish leaves that wilt in the sun. Inspect the plant’s root for white maggots. Wrap cabbage collars around the stems to stop the attack.

Clubroot: It is a fungal disease that grows in acidic soil and can remain there for numerous years. The disease causes stunted growth. Solarize soil and rotate crops to prevent this disease.

Several other fungal diseases, such as black rot, white mold, and downy mildew, can also affect Brussels sprouts. Proper air circulation around plants helps prevent fungal problems. If plants get infected, it is best to destroy them.

The Bottom Line

Brussels sprouts are one of the most rewarding crops to grow and are loved by many. These hardy, low-maintenance vegetables make excellent winter garden crops. You can use their leaves and sprouts, which resemble mini cabbage heads, for an enhanced flavor in various dishes.

Grow this classic winter vegetable in your garden and enjoy abundant, nutritious harvests even in the coldest weather.

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If you plan to grow tomatoes in your garden this season, this complete guide on growing garden-fresh tomatoes will help you start.

Types of Tomatoes

The first step is determining what tomato variety to grow, and there is a huge array of tomato varieties available to choose from, including cherry tomatoes, heirloom varieties, chunky beefsteak tomatoes, Roma tomatoes, paste varieties, and varieties with round fruits. Whatever type you grow, they will fall into one of the following two categories:

Determinate Tomatoes (Bush varieties): These tomatoes are compact plants, ideal for containers and smaller spaces. They can grow around 3 feet tall. Trailing varieties can also be planted in window boxes and hanging baskets. Determinate tomatoes need minimal maintenance other than watering and feeding. They produce many ripe tomatoes at one time. Most paste tomato types are determinate, which is great for preparing sauce and canning.

Indeterminate Tomatoes (Cordon or Vining varieties): These tomato varieties are fast-growing, robust plants that grow very tall. Indeterminate tomatoes need staking, both in greenhouses and outdoors. They take little ground space because they grow vertically. However, they require regular maintenance, such as proper watering, feeding, attaching to tall supports, and pruning side shoots. These vining types produce the largest mid- to late season slicing tomatoes throughout the summer and until the first frost. Most cherry and beefsteak tomatoes are indeterminate.

Many tomato varieties offer delicious fruits of various shapes, sizes, flavors, and sweetness. Check the seed packet or plant tag before buying to get the type that suits your location and growing space.

Spacing Tomato Plants

Proper tomato spacing is crucial because this crop needs good spacing, sunlight, and air circulation to grow well. Plant tomatoes 18 to 24 inches apart, 3 to 4 feet between rows, for enough airflow. If the plants become overcrowded, they will block the light and air from accessing other plants.

Indeterminate or vining varieties need more space than determinate because they keep growing until the frost. Plant these varieties at least 36 inches apart and keep the rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Check seed packets or seedling labels for spacing guidelines.

Soil Needs

Tomatoes prefer rich, well-drained soil. Choose a site with soil that is a bit acidic loam or sandy loam, around 6.2-6.8 pH. In addition, tomato plants thrive in full sun, so choose a sunny location in your garden or container where the plants will get at least six to eight hours of sunlight daily. Add organic matter to the soil a few weeks before planting to improve soil health.

Growing Zones and When to Plant Tomatoes

Tomato plants are best suited for zones 5 to 11. Mid-season tomato varieties are ideal for garden zones 5 to 8, while late-season varieties are best grown in zones 8 to 11. Early-weather varieties need extra protection for growing in USDA zones five and below. Tomatoes are heat-loving, long-season plants that can’t tolerate frost. Plant seedlings outdoors when all danger of frost has passed, and night temperatures reach above 50° Fahrenheit. To start tomatoes from seed, sow seeds indoors at least six weeks before the last spring frost date in your location. Plant seedlings outside about two weeks after the frost date or when temperatures stay in the mid-50 range.

Harden off both store-bought and home-grown tomato seedlings before planting them outdoors. When the weather gets warm, start hardening off the seedlings by taking them outdoors for a few hours daily and slowly increasing the light and time they receive. Once temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees, transplant seedlings outdoors.

How to Plant Tomatoes

Dig a planting hole deep enough to transplant seedlings that 2/3 of the main stem is underground. Only 1/3 of the plant should remain above ground. The stem will produce roots from any part of the soil, resulting in extra-strong plants. A larger root system means the plant can absorb greater nutrients and water, making it healthier and less susceptible to disease and drought. Plant tomato seedlings according to the spacing recommended above. Give them enough space to spread out. Place stakes or cages in the soil during planting time. Staking or caging will support the plant, helping the plant stay upright and keep fruit off the ground to prevent disease. Water the seedlings at the base to reduce shock to the roots.

Fertilization Needs and Type of Fertilizers

Tomatoes need nutrient-rich soil to produce healthy fruit. To grow the juiciest and flavorful tomatoes, your plants need a supply of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. However, you cannot just throw fertilizer on tomato plants and expect excellent results. First, test the soil to determine the lacking nutrients and fertilizer type your soil needs for optimal growth. Feed the plants every 10-15 days with high potassium liquid fertilizer until the fruits swell. If the soil is fertile and has rich organic matter before planting, your plants might not need additional fertilizer in the growing season. However, tomatoes benefit from fertilizing at different stages of their lifecycle.

High-quality compost that is well-decomposed and dark in color is the best tomato fertilizer, regardless of your working soil. When tomato seedlings emerge, tomatoes can benefit from fertilizer rich in phosphorus, essential for new tissue formation. So, give seedlings a water-soluble fertilizer with high phosphorus content. Choose a fertilizer with a high middle number that denotes phosphorus in N-P-K. Some commonly available fertilizers for tomato seedlings are 8-32-16 and 12-24-12 ratio fertilizers.

Watering Tomatoes

Water tomatoes regularly to keep the soil and compost moist. Inadequate watering and fluctuating moisture levels can lead to fruit problems such as tomato splitting or diseases. Container plants dry quickly, so they may need daily watering in hot summers. Curling leaves are a significant sign of a thirsty plant. During the growing season, water plants around 2 inches per square foot per week. It is best to water early in the morning, so plants have enough moisture to survive a hot day. Apply 2-4 inches of organic mulch layer five weeks after transplanting to retain soil moisture and deter weeds.

Use a drip irrigation system to precisely, efficiently, and deeply water tomato plants. A drip system keeps the soil moist by slowly dripping water into the plant’s root zone. Deep watering promotes a strong root system. Avoid overhead watering or splashing water on leaves, as this can lead to disease.

Harvesting Tomatoes

Tomatoes take 60 to 100 days to harvest, depending on the type. The harvesting time of tomatoes is usually late summer. Harvest tomatoes when firm and fully colored with a supple texture and appropriate size for their type. Ripe tomatoes will have shiny, smooth skin once they are ready to harvest. Use sharp pruners or garden scissors to cut stems during harvest, as pulling fruits from the vine can damage the plant. When a frost is predicted, remove all fruits from outdoor plants. Never put tomatoes on a sunny windowsill to ripen, or they will rot before they are ripe.

Never refrigerate freshly picked tomatoes. This will ruin the texture and flavor of garden tomatoes. Core fresh tomatoes and store them in bags or containers in a refrigerator. Seal the bag and freeze.

Life Cycle of the Tomato Plant

The lifecycle of a tomato plant consists of six growth stages, including germination (6 to 8 days), early growth (25 to 35 days), vegetative growth (20 to 25 days), flowering (around 20 days), fruit formation (20 to 30 days), and ripening (15 to 20 days). The first two growth stages occur indoors. The third stage of plant growth occurs when the soil temperature reaches above 50° Fahrenheit, allowing seedlings to transplant outdoors. The yellow flowers start appearing in the fourth stage. Then, the fruit starts appearing and growing in the fifth stage. Determinate tomatoes go through growth stages faster than indeterminate tomatoes.

Common Tomato Diseases and Care

Tomato plants can fall prey to garden pests and diseases. These problems occur when growing conditions are not ideal. The common tomato problems include:

Early Blight: This is a fungal disease that causes leaf drop. The risk of blight increases in July due to warmer temperatures and high humidity. It starts with dark, brown to black spots on lower leaves and stems. If you catch this disease early, destroy infected leaves immediately for plant survival.

Late Blight: This is also a fungal disease that produces gray, moldy spots on plant leaves and fruit that turn brown later. It is spread by moist weather.

Mosaic Virus: This virus causes deformed leaves and narrow, twisted young growth, causing the leaves to become mottled yellow. Destroy infected plants immediately.

Powdery Mildew: This is also a fungal disease that causes white spots or dusting of white on leaves.

Fusarium Wilt: This disease causes yellowing and wilting on one side of the plant, which moves upward as the fungus spreads. Once fusarium wilt strikes a plant, destroy it completely.

The Bottom Line

Growing tomatoes in your home garden is a rewarding task that provides an abundance of fresh, flavorful, juiciest, and nutritious tomatoes that taste better than store-bought ones. In a warm summer, they will grow and fruit easily if watered regularly and in full sun. Choose tomato varieties suitable for your climate and grow a range of varieties, including disease-resistant types, since tomatoes are most susceptible to diseases.

So, get your favorite tomato varieties, find a sunny spot in your garden, wear your garden gloves, and start growing delicious tomatoes.

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